The lesson: Traditions can still be meaningful when they change.
Like most New Englanders, I’ve been going to Maine all my life and have a favorite lobster shack, coastal inn, and local diner—all the nostalgic places I return to. But in 2020, I visited Maine grateful for its proximity to my home base in Boston, in full scouting mode, searching somewhat feverishly for new cycling spots. I found the Penobscot Bay islands, close to the mainland but blissfully traffic-free thanks to the limited car ferries. I found Isleboro with its clapboard mansions and rocky coves; Vinalhaven with its quarries and lobstermen; Isle au Haut’s rocky ride at the very edge of the map. I love them all, but North Haven takes the cake. From the tiny main town, you ride into New England idylls, out to Crabtree Point for killer coastal views, then circle around the island’s northern edge. It’s the kind of place where you buy bags of fresh oysters from an unmanned shack on the honor system, and my only complaint is that it’s all over much too soon: 20 miles of heaven out in the middle of the water, and a departure from my go-to haunts that could easily become my new favorite.
Ride the islands on our Maine Family Bike + Adventure Tour.