Mas Falgarona
Figueres, Costa Brava
Mas Falgarona is the first hotel on our Costa Brava bike tour, and it’s one of the most charming places I’ve stayed. It’s not over the top, and you feel like you’d never have found it without DuVine. Mas Falgarona is an old stone farm from the turn of the first century that has been converted into a boutique hotel. It’s very small, with just 11 rooms; we have the run of the house. It’s got the amenities like a nice pool, and the attention to detail is there. But it also has all the charm—there are sheep across the street, it’s local, and you can hear the wind blow outside your window. It has a perfect little restaurant where you’ll feel like they’re cooking just for you. They have fantastic local Mediterranean food and a sommelier who can recommend some great local wines.
Gorge de la Nesque
Monieux, Provence
I’ve been to Provence too many times to count, but for some reason, I keep on finding new roads. I keep finding harder rides as I get stronger, and it’s right in DuVine’s backyard. You can ride forever. In Provence, there’s always a new road that makes you think, “this is better than the last ride.” That’s what keeps me coming back time and time again.
On my most recent trip to Provence, I fell madly, deeply in love with the Gorge de la Nesque. Located behind the Mt. Ventoux, the ride goes downhill for 20 kilometers along a gorge that’s like the Grand Canyon. It blew my mind. One wrong move, and you’re in trouble, but it’s so gorgeous. It put me in a good mood, even knowing that I was about to take on Mt. Ventoux. It prepared me for the Ventoux. It really had me thinking, “where has this road been all my life?”
Enoteca Properzio
Spello, Umbria
Imagine cycling into the little hilltop village of Spello in Umbria and being welcomed by an olive oil maker for a private lunch and tasting. This is the kind of experience you won’t get anywhere else. At Enoteca Properzio, Roberto leads you in an olive oil tasting. He’s a good salesman, and you’re sure to leave that place with a bottle or two of the best olive oil in the world. You might spend a little more, but you will get really good quality. Roberto’s son will serve you lunch—think fresh truffles and pasta and some of the finest Italian wines. It’s all very chic, fun, laid-back and educational.
Riva Reno
Palma, Mallorca
I know, I know—gelato is an Italian specialty. But I’m telling you—the best gelato I’ve ever had is from Riva Reno in Palma, Mallorca. It’s handmade, crazy gelato that makes your toes curl because it’s just that good. It’s so smooth and fresh. It’s to die for. Riva Reno is just a little ice cream shop across from the church downtown. You can tell it’s the real deal. It was created by Italian gelato-makers, so it’s authentic. Taste Italy while you’re still in Spain. If you find yourself on a Mallorca bike tour in Spain, try my go-to flavor: Nutella.
Cascina Marcantonio
Acqui Terme, Piedmont
Piedmont is hilly, but how beautiful it is. There’s a lot of vineyard fog in the morning, and the quietness of the vineyards and hilltop villages—it’s a wine-lover’s and cyclist’s dream. Hidden in the tiny Piedmont town of Acqui Terme is Cascina Marcantonio—or what we like to call “Guido’s Mom’s house.” Our DuVine guide Guido welcomes us into his parents’ home where his mother Clara cooks dinner for us. Not just dinner—an eight-course meal. To me, eating can be harder than cycling. I can’t eat eight courses! And at Clara’s—if she likes you, she feeds you. I’m blessed that they like me, and I love them, so I eat. It’s like getting on a ride when you don’t know how hard it’s going to be—you have to pace yourself, sometimes it hurts, and you have to wobble home. But it’s totally worth it.
Restaurant Manos
Symi, Greece
In Symi, Greece, there’s this little restaurant called Manos, named for the owner. It’s a little fish restaurant where you’re eating right on the docks. You can just taste how fresh it is—the octopus and sea bass and olives. And the local owner is running from table to table taking care of his patrons himself. I love a place where the owner’s involved. There’s Turkish music playing, and if you stop in later at night, the whole place is turned upside down. It’s a party, with smashed plates and dancing. It’s everything I love. Be sure to make a reservation, as it’s usually a packed house for dinner.
The Smile
New York, New York
This little café on the cobblestoned Bond Street in SoHo is a great place to meet a friend, client, or date. Perfect to warm up with a pot of tea. They’ve got a great breakfast, great service, and a cozy atmosphere. It almost feels like you’ve turned a cobblestoned corner and found yourself in a quaint English village restaurant or a secret speakeasy. You could walk right by it if you didn’t know it was a café. You’ll definitely leave smiling.
Le Bistro du Paradou
Paradou, Provence
You’ll feel like you’re in Paris at Le Bistro du Paradou, but you’re tucked away in rural Provence. That’s one of the great things about France, or Europe: in the US, usually, the farther you get from the city, the harder it is to find really good food. But in France, it’s just he opposite.
Le Bistro du Paradou is very chic, local, and Provencal, with big, heavy wooden tables, and a huge rotisserie. It’s all about what’s local to the region, including local wine. The menu changes daily based on what’s fresh, and everyone eats the same thing, family style. You really feel like you’re in a Provencal family home. The chef and the waiters are very cool. They really believe in what they do and they nail every detail. If you’re lucky enough to get a reservation, you won’t be sorry.
Knidos Ruins
Datca, Turkey
Imagine cycling along a quiet road in Turkey, and coming to the end of it to find an ancient Greek amphitheater perched on a hilltop overlooking the sea. The Knidos Ruins are the remains of an ancient Greek city, and the amphitheater was by far my favorite. It’s just crazy to look out over this whole city and imagine it bustling with people. And now they’re all gone. You’re the only one there, and it feels eerily quiet.
I went on my ride, jumped in the water, and walked around the ruins in my towel. It was wild. I felt like I’d gone back in time. If you’re visiting Turkey, this is a must-see.
Ristorante da I Gemelli
Portofino, Cinque Terre
In a place like the Italian Riviera, there tend to be lots of touristy restaurants in the village centers. It can be hard to find something real, local, and authentic, but Gemelli is just that, owned by two hardworking twin brothers.
The restaurant has a terrace with amazing sea views. It’s perfect for a relaxing dinner and bottle of wine after a long day of hiking or sailing around Portofino. The twins serve authentic Italian fare with seafood specialties: octopus and branzino, a lot of lemon, and a lot of olive oil.
It’s very rare that I go back to the same restaurant more than once in a trip, but I ate here two consecutive nights. The food is so fresh and very consistent. Across the harbor, their mother mans a gelato shop. The family has a long history in the town—it feels like they own it.
