Not all olive oil is created equal
It’s true that any product labeled as “olive oil” probably came from the olive fruit originally, but adulteration and refinement processes can turn a pure product into something that’s hardly recognizable—standardized for mass production and stripped of its benefits.
The International Olive Council (IOC) outlines eight types of olive oil and maintains that extra virgin olive oil is the finest. True EVOO is mulled within 24 hours of harvest, has the lowest level of free acidity, and is deemed by experts to be without sensory defects.
Olive farming is sustainable
The life expectancy and resiliency of olive trees make them a perennial crop that provides a regenerative bounty—without draining natural resources. Olive trees are resistant to drought, disease, and fire. According to Coleman, “olive trees have the ability to live for thousands of years. In this sense, the great oil producers of the world are land stewards committed to the economic viability of sustainable agriculture.”
Olive trees can yield fruit without added fertilizers or soil erosion. Some olive trees that have been fruiting for thousands of years still provide the same food as they did millennia ago, nourishing some of the world’s greatest civilizations.
Olive oil is culinary gold
There are few ingredients more vital to gastronomy. Nicholas Coleman says: “[Olive oil] has the unique ability to conduct and evenly spread heat. It softens textures and functions as the ‘flavor transporter’—infusing itself with herbs, garlic, or other aromatics—and then delivers these flavors into every nook and cranny of your food. It is absolutely fundamental in any cooks’ pantry and is worth its weight in gold.”
Olive oil’s versatility makes it an indispensable ingredient. Enjoy good quality oil mopped up with bread, use it to sear vegetables or protein, add richness to a salad, or drizzle it on at the end to finish a dish.
Olive oil is healthy
As a high-quality monounsaturated fat, studies have shown that extra virgin olive oil helps combat diseases including cancer, diabetes, and osteoporosis. Its proven dietary advantages make EVOO an essential part of the Mediterranean diet, and it’s loaded with antioxidants like Vitamin E, carotenoids, and phenolic compounds.
Coleman says, “when you taste high-quality extra virgin olive oil, you will notice a peppery sensation in the back of your throat. This is caused by oleocanthal—a natural phenolic compound containing high levels of antioxidants—and is considered an attribute of freshness and quality.” Oleocanthal helps reduce inflammation, while antioxidants prevent cell damage—but you won’t find these qualities in diluted olive oils.
Olive oil is delicate
When olive oil is heated beyond its smoking point of 207°C (405°F), it loses many beneficial qualities and can cause damage to your body’s cells. Thankfully, most everyday cooking can be done at a lower temperature.
To control the temperature of your oil, start by heating it in a cold pan, raising the temperature slowly, and bringing it to a mild simmer. And don’t use your best-quality oil for cooking, since the flavor will be lost. Instead, use a more affordable oil for cooking and finish the dish with the finer oil.
Olive oil’s region of origin doesn't matter
Apulian olive oil versus Provençal oil versus olive oil from Napa, California? According to Coleman, the location of origin doesn’t necessarily matter as long as the quality of production is high. “No one country has a monopoly on quality. As long as the producer is taking care of their trees and growing healthy olives, they can produce exceptional oil all over the world.”
It may start a lively debate to claim that Italian olive oil is superior to Greek or Spanish oil, but ultimately they all have their own nuances. Any olive oil can be excellent if the conditions are right.
What grows together goes together
This old adage helps to refine the pairing of ingredients in your cuisine. Coleman says, “‘what grows together goes together’ is a philosophy applicable to olive oil. Just like wine, you want to taste the place.”
To make it easy, use regional olive oil with regional dishes. For instance, use a Ligurian oil to make a classic Italian pesto or oil from central Spain to drizzle over a tapas of Iberian ham. Maintaining a similar locality of ingredients will enhance the natural harmony of flavors.
Quality olive oil isn't at the grocery store
According to Nicholas Coleman, “the good quality oils are not conventional brands.” In conventional U.S. supermarkets, finding true extra virgin olive oil is rare—you may happen upon one or two quality bottles at best.
What better souvenir than picking up olive oil directly from the producers on your travels around the world? You can easily find great olive oil on your DuVine cycling tour in Spain, France, Italy, and Croatia. To find “the good stuff” at home, you may have to go beyond the grocery store. Find a specialty shop or independent importer, or check out Nicholas Coleman’s company Grove and Vine, which delivers the best quality products directly to your door.
Judge a book by its cover...
…and your olive oil by its label. “The more details, the better. If a bottle only says ‘Extra virgin, first cold pressed, product of Italy,’ then the consumer has no idea what’s actually in the bottle,” explains Coleman. Look out for misleading labels using Nicholas Coleman’s three indicators of good quality olive oil:
1. Harvest Date: “Freshness is crucial to quality. Any legitimate producer will have a harvest date on their bottle.” Olive oil should be consumed within a year of production. If the bottle does not indicate the date of production—a bottling date doesn’t count!—it’s a sign the oil might lack health benefits and flavor.
2. Olive Cultivar: “The cultivar is the type of olive the oil is composed of. Similar to grapes, there are hundreds of olive cultivars, each with its own unique attributes and flavor.” To make more informed choices, get to know your olives and how the oil affects your food’s flavor.
3. Region: “It’s not enough for an oil to be from one country. The best EVOO comes from a single estate or specific appellation.” Avoid bottles with vague sourcing on their labels: if the origin is an entire country (or worse, multiple countries), it usually means the oil is industrially produced and low quality. An exact place of origin indicates legitimate, well-grown olives.
Trust your taste
As with wines, olive oil preference is personal—flavors can vary from peppery to fruity to bitter. Coleman advises that you “check for the harvest date, region, and cultivar. From that point on, the proof is in the taste.”
Once you verify the hallmarks of good quality, it’s all about what pleases your palate. Notice the color to understand richness and intensity, take a whiff to capture nuanced aromas, then taste the olive oil, broadening your reach to products from various countries and the regions within.
About the expert
Nicholas Coleman is an olive oil educator, speaker, and co-founder of Grove and Vine, a company committed to delivering the world’s highest quality olive oils directly to subscribers. Nicholas served as Chief Oleologist at Eataly from 2010-2017.
Try his custom-blended oils or sign up for Grove and Vine’s quarterly subscription. Each bottle of oil comes with its story detailing the history of the growing region, a profile of the producer, the olive cultivar, wine pairing notes, and regional recipes.
